Thursday, 30 May 2013

South Island: Day Two

OK, let's see if we can get some momentum going with these posts; after all I've got 21 days to get through!

Thursday 14th February

Geraldine - Moeraki - Dunedin

Up a little late (damn that noisy fan).

But, fueled on some gorgeous free range eggs, pork schnitzel and United 1 -0 up against Real Madrid in the Champions League, we set off.

Our immediate destination is Moreaki and it's famous boulders. We first make a quick stop at Oamaru however, to grab a coffee. There is a Steampunk museum here and while we don't have time to stop, we grab some photos of some works outside.

Arrive at the the boulders just after low tide. Sweet, anyone would think we planned this ;0)

The boulders are cool, stone balls, most half buried in the sand. Many, many photos were taken and some tomfoolery was had. Unfortunately it turns out we did not take any exceptional shots; a nice sunset would have helped. However, here are few of the best for your delectation. [Must work on my handstands!]

Head a little further south to Shag Point (insert your favourite carry on witticism here) and follow a steep path behind some houses down to a tidal shelf. There are more boulders here, which owing to their larger size and variety are probably more impressive than their more well known cousins.

Some look like fossilized dinosaur eggs; some are intact, others split in half; some have water in them; some are literally covered in guano; some are half embedded in the cliff side; all are interesting. We heard that this places was popular with seals, but see none.

Spend a good hour here wandering and snapping away. There are plenty of rock pools filled with crystal clear water, left by the high tide. Some wildlife in them, but not loads. Far more lively is the kelp that lines the shore. It's in constant motion as the tide sucks in and out through it. Amanda is transfixed - "it looks like taglliatelle!"

Speaking of the tide; it decided, rather inconsiderately we felt, to start coming back in more aggressively. Time to start heading back. Take a route nearer to the sea to watch the kelp; and almost walk straight into a fur seal, literally!

Very well camouflaged, it's not bothered by us and we calmly walk on. Only to spot another one. Larger, more active and blocking our path back to the cliff. Not only that it starts heading towards us.

Retreat is blocked by the incoming tide. What was once tidal shelf is quickly becoming simply tide, thick with kelp and in most places waist deep or higher. Queue some mild panic.

Mr Seal keeps moving forward towards us; stopping and eye-balling us every few meters. We are slowly flanking it all the time getting ready to wade; thankfully we manage to get to a higher part of the shelf which only requires some scrambling and rock hopping as supposed to wading. We've managed to flank him and he saunters past and plops into the sea.

After that little bit of drama a cup of tea was in order. So we drive on a little further to Shag point itself, park up and get the kettle on. Brew with a view. The sun then comes out and take a short walk along the headland. Spy a seal colony below us, lazing on the rocks. Amanda is disappointed not to spy any penguins - even taking some convincing that the birds she can see are gannets and not penguins.

Amazing views and some great surf - would make a lovely spot if not for the rocks, seals and kelp. Back to our room with a view for some leftover "Brocolli Bolognese". A lovely spot we wanted to spend the night - our first bit of "freedom camping" - but it is forbidden here.

So, push on south to Dunedin. Lot's of steep hills and the camper struggles a little. Worth the climb however as you descent into Dunedin from atop one of the steepest. Fabulous views.

Campsite is on the outskirts of town. Grab a drink in a nearby "locals" bar. Miranda is playing; Amanda is happy, as are half the bar - unexpected!

Roads so far have been easy, but the steep descent into Dunedin aside, boring to drive. That said, flat straight roads mean we are still on our first tank of gas. :0)

Odometer: 384km

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