South Island: Day Six

Automata, Petrified Wood & More Penguins

Pounawea to Curio Bay

Monday 18th February

We wake up to the sun shining on the estuary that our camper backs on too. However, we are parked in the shade under trees and it's noticeable colder today.

A quick brekky then head out for a morning stroll along the beach and into a Mangrove area. Spy some OyserCatchers which scamper a little further away each time we approach. Also spot some Herons, Geese and ducks - the area is popular with the birds.

Hit the road (the seemingly never ending Scenic Drive) and pass through Owaka to the Purakauni Falls. Pretty but get the impression they would have been better if there had been more rain recently.

Our next stop is Papatowai to see the "Lost Gypsy Caravan". We heard about this place by watching a documentary on the South Island. The bus is chock full of the various Automata and gizmos made by a British chap called Blair. The majority are made from recycled old junk and driftwood. The bus is also full of nostalgia and is a gallery for local artists.

Blair is in his adjacent workshop beavering away on his latest creation as a fine selection of music plays. Outside, in what appears to be his garden are several larger interactive installations.

The whale moved when the handle below was turned.

Finish our visit with an awesome coffee / hot chocolate and the onsite café (Papatowifi) run by Blair's missus.

Yup - I know I'm sitting rather rigidly, my back was aching a little from all driving / stooping. So trying to sit proper, like.

Cannot resist buying a small automaton as a memento, even if a little pricey (Video Below) Resisted buying a much more pricer "gurgler" and resolve to make one myself (one day!).

WhaleFish from Rich & Amanda on Vimeo.

Cathedral Cave next. We needed low tide so grabbed lunch first. Croissants and yummy jam while seated in the van with a view.

A pleasant bush wake takes us down to the beach and a short 10 minute walk along the beach brings us to the cave itself. On the way we pass somebodies shoes, left with a message not to steal. The cave entrance is huge and very deep, about 30 to 40m. At the end you realise that there is another entrance on the beach and the cave is in fact one large V. Spy a lone shag at the end, which nobody else sees.

Our guide book hints at marvels in the next bay. Only problem is you can only access it at low tide and then by scrambling over some rocks. We attempt this, but soon find out it is not fully low tide yet; Amanda is soaked up to her waist. A good sport, she laughs it off; but decides not to follow me when low tide proper arrives.

Navigate the rocks with just some wet feet to find a beach with not a footprint on it. Vast and lot's of caves. I jog as best I can in search of the "marvel" - find a waterfall pouring on the beach - perhaps this is it. I can imagine it being a lot more spectacular given more rain. Concious of the tide and Amanda, drying off alone in bay next door, I don't linger too long before heading back.

Turns out to be a lovely hot day, some Amanda is soon dried off and we continue on. Our final destination today is the rustic camp site and Curio Bay; so named because of a petrified forest at the same place - some 180 million years old!!!!!

Arrive in the late afternoon. Definitely rustic. Amanda is not impressed by the concrete shower block - very rough and ready. The pitches are all separated by hedges, something I think Amanda was glad off when we found our allocated spot. In a far corner, perched on the top of a cliff next to the sea. Quick reccy then head straight to the forest. Amazing. The entire tidal shelf is covered with petrified Tree stumps and entire logs. They are so detailed you can see the grain. Admire said logs and the sea playing with some kelp; then turned our attention to another of Curio's Bay's interests - Penguins.

If you look closely at the second pic, you can see our van

The penguins here are more habituated to humans so you can stand on the beach a mere 20 meters away. We have uninterrupted viewing of an adolescent waiting for his parents to come home to feed him. Spend about an hour, watching the Penguin and chatting with a volunteer, posted her to make sure people don't get too close. Or stand between the chick and the see and frighten the adults such that they don't return.

Spend the evening walking the head and watching an amazing ever changing sunset. A wonderful day an evening, sadly spoilt by our discovery of our first sandfly bites!

Odometer: 813km

South Island: Day Five

Portobello - Nugget Point - Pounawea

Sunday 17th Feb 2013

Up late today as tired feet needed another hours kip. This mornings destination is the head and the world's only mainland Albatross colony, a short trip along scenic drive. Spend some time learning Albatross related trivia in the visitors centre but decide against the rather expensive tours - particularly as the Albatross are not expected to fly until the evening.

Head outside for the views; amazing with lots of gulls around and VERY windy. Which is probably a good thing, since we are,in fact, rewarded with some views of an Albatross riding the currents.

Very distinctive in flight, it was close enough that it did not just look like a large sea gull. Even managed to get some photos.

Head back to 'The Perc' in Dunedin for lunch then set our sights on "tunnel beach". The drive there takes us out of Dunedin and along the coast through a town called Brighton. Very pretty according to my notes, with great surf pummelling pure white sand beaches.

Tunnel beach is accessed by a tunnel (duh) carved by hand though the cliff. It was made by some land owner way back when, so that his daughters could access said beach. And what a nice one it is too. Secluded with great surf. I attempt to draw the view from the cliff top - but my drawing skills are somewhat rusty and I do not do the scene justice at all.

Time is getting on and we want to make Nugget Point by 6pm to try and see some Yellow Eyed Penguins. STill on scenic drive we pass over several hills; great views but the van struggles somewhat. Thankfully the road then becomes rather flat and reminiscent of East Anglia, allowing good time to be made.

Good job too, as the last stretch of road to the point itself is very bumpy gravel - about 15Km of the stuff. We make it just before 6pm and take shelter from the howling wind in the hide.

Our reward is the sighting of a YEP standing on the beach and a short while later another 3 arriving in the surf, before waddling up the beach. It's getting cold now, but we persevere - how often do you get the chance to see penguins in the wild!?

We get to see them continue their journey hopping up the cliff face and into the bushes, where one presumes their burrows are. A short while later they emerge in a clearing and we can see them regurgitating food for the chicks - well maybe not the details, but the actions at least.

As we leave, we notice some chap standing on the cliff edge in front of the hide - and thus in plain view of the penguins. Almost walk away, but decide to say something. Not that it made much difference, he just moved around the other side. Idiot. Still, we were not the only people who he annoyed. Back at the car park a few people congratulated us for his ticking off.

With sun setting we push on home for the night. Turns out "the idiot" is behind us all the way and Amanda is worried he will be at our camp site. At the last minute the road diverged however; and judging by the state of it, we took the one less travelled.

Home for the night was Pounawea Motor Camp. A lovely little camp where e parked amongst the trees and backing onto an estuary.

Odometer: 711 Km