In February we set off to explore one of the few places we (and many many other) people had yet to explore - New Zealand's East Cape. It's commonly known throughout New Zealand to be a little backward - the place that time forgot. I know a few of you think this about New Zealand itself, so I imagine you'd love this place ;0)
This trip was going to entail a lot of driving. Not by American standards, as my friend is happy to tell me, but definitely for us. Therefore we took a quick breather after the first 3 hours of driving by staying with friends in Tauranga. They recently moved there from the big smoke (Auckland) and have a lovely house two stone throws from the beach. We also met up with and old friend of Amanda's mum who was kind enough to cook us dinner (again), thanks Doris!
15th FebruarySince we had been to Tauranga before, the adventure did not really start until the next day when we set off bright and early for the cape. First stop was the beachside town of Ohope. Amazing burgers, a walk to a secluded beach and a bit of skinny dipping later we were back on the road. Passing through the rather bleak farming town, Opotiki before stopping at Tirohanga beach camp to set up the tent. Nice sheltered spot, but pretty empty.
Leaving Tirohanga we headed for the cape proper; Every turn in the road seeming to deliver another sunny little bay with gorgeous beaches. Our destination was one such bay - Whanarua Bay and it's beachside campground. Along the way we stopped at a working Macadamia orchard where we met the British owners. Filled our faces with their amazing paninis made with their very own macadamia pesto.
Unfortunately the campsite had no cooking facilities so we had to leave. Nae bother. We managed to secure a campsite which turned out to be much better. We were advised to check at a guesthouse across the bay. The owner looked a bit confused to start with, but then showed us to a small patch of grass outside the house. The was literally just enough space to pitch the tent, but we had a seaview (one of the pegs was left out as it was on top of the sea wall!).
A quick kayak around the bay was followed by an amazing shared meal with the other guests. The owner pitched in a wild boar and the other guests, fish they had caught earlier the day, including two huge kingfish heads (someone else left with the bodies). Tasty fresh food and great company for a memorable evening.
There is not much around the area by way of cafes, restaurants or supermarkets so we headed back to the Macadamia orchard for breakfast. The paninis were just as good as we remembered. The top of the cape is pretty dull by comparison, as the road heads inland and the sea views are lost. Along the way we take a nosey around a unique church that is decorated inside by Maori carvings. Then took a gawp at the world's largest Pohutukawa tree. Given that they are endemic to New Zealand this is one of those rare occasions where the tag of "world's" something or the other can be believed. :0) Lunch was a picnic in Tokomaru Bay on the wharf of an old whaling station.
Next stop was Tologa Bay. Home to another wharf, this one being the longest in New Zealand at 600m. The locals love this wharf so much that they somehow managed to raise $5M for it's restoration. This after an architectural survey advised against it, as the cost of restoration was prohibitive. Pretty mind boggling given it's only use nowadays is for fishing and walking.
The adjacent campsite back on the beach again, meaning once more we could sleep to the sound of the surf crashing just beyond the dunes. Perfect conditions for body boarding too. I now see why it can be as much fun as surfing!
At dinner we meet Johannes & Sabina, a German couple now living in Wanaka who were also touring the North Island for the first time. We also shared breakfast the next day and hope to take them up on the offer of staying with them sometime at their lakeside home.
No let up from the perfect weather, which was perfect if a little hot for a hike over the headland following the Cook's Cove walk. This was where Captain James Cook stopped in 1769 as part of his circumnavigation of New Zealand. Great views, goats running free hopping across the rocks and a meadow whose pleasant smell reminded me of Mongolia for some reason - a combination of flowers, grass and dung I think!
Spent the afternoon relaxing with at the Morere hot pools. Probably unique in that once inside the complex, you complete a 10 minute bush walk to reach the pools. They also happened to be plunge pools, one of which was rather cold. I hopped between the hot and cold a few times, but Amanda was not convinced.
Home for the night and our last in a tent, was Mahia Peninsula. A long windswept beach was great for an evening stroll, but the campsite it self was a let down and yet the most expensive we have ever stayed in. made up for by an Amazing sunset however.
One of our reasons for heading Eastwards was the Art Deco Weekend at Napier. Amanda has wanted to visit here ever since she heard about it. Napier suffered a catastrophic earthquake in 1931, levelling the majority of the city. For the most part it was rebuilt in the Art Deco Style popular at the time. The city become a UNESCO world heritage site in 2007 because of the architecture. The festival attracts people from all over the world, who dress and make like it's 1930 again.
Our first day here was all about arriving, meeting our host (the lovely Livee through Airbnb) and walking up bluff hill. Thankfully more interesting than Bluff itself.
20th FebruaryThe main event. Headed into town. Lot's of people, many dressed up. Although not up to Amanda's satorical standards - many dressed for the wrong era apparently. Lot's of vintage cars, steam engines and other shenanigans going on. Made an obligatory stop at the earthquake museum and partook of one of "Mister D's" "world famous" doughnuts. Meh, they were OK, but no all that. Bit gimicky too - you had to squirt the filling in yourself using a syringe.
The evenings entertainment was a big band night down on the beachside Sound Shell. We dressed up for this in togs kindly lent by one of Amanda's colleagues (well her mum). Amanda was made up when a passer by stopped us for a photo saying we looked "the real deal" - judge for yourself. Had a little boogie to some swing, and I think, The Charleston.
21st FebruaryWe enjoyed our dress up so much the previous night we decided to do so again for Brunch. Stopped off at a Church Fete and picked up some delicious black doris plum jam. Heavenly. More compliments had Amanda bouncing down the street to the cafe. Spied a cool little alleyway which made for some great photos and started a trend as more and more passers by did a double take and said "what a good idea".
Shoe horned in a quick visit to Ocean Beach and did a bit more body boarding. Very hot we soon headed back home for some shade. In the evening we ventured out, bedecked in our finest (and only) 1930s outfits to meet friends who happened to be travelling that way too, for drinks and more music.
However, this was an adventure (it's in the title) and so could not sign off without mentioning some other hot pools we found.
We found these courtesy of a guidebook we were recommended. These pools were at the end of a 15 minute hike along a track that left a carpark of former hotel (now cafe) where we were going to stop for lunch. There were several signs saying, danger, pools closed, but we had it on good advice that it was a) safe, and b) legal to proceed. Indeed afterwards we guessed the signs are there to put off the busloads of tourists who pass through here. The track is very narrow in places and with a drop to oneside. The pools themselves are two concrete basins plonked on the hillside over looking the valley below; and filled by a piece of black tubing that delivers the water from a nearby hot spring. Avert your eyes, second skinny dipping episode ahead. What a find these pools were great. Amazing views and very private - unfortuntaely the lack of rain meant that they were VERY hot and we only dared to go up to our mid thighs - no dangly bits were harmed by this adventure!
We will have to come back one day when it's a wee bit cooler - what a shame :0)
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