Coromandel: The Pinnacles

Thanks your majesty

This weekend was our last three day one until October; courtesy of Her Majesty. While no big deal back in 'blighty, here it is a public holiday; albeit celebrated in June, not on her actual birthday of 21 April - go figure!

It had been a while since we had completed a decent tramp so I arranged to head to the Coromandel National park with friends. We planned to walk the famous Pinnacles trail (Kauaeranga Kauri Trail), which traverses steep and rugged country along tracks built by kauri bushmen between 1870's & 1920's up to the top.

Unfortunately Amanda's back had taken a turn for the worse, so she stayed behind to enjoy a girly weekend instead.

The traffic on the long weekends is notorisouly bad as everyone leaves Auckland, the majority for The Coromandel. Therefore we were up at 5.30 for Amanda to drop me off with Jan & Matylda.

My fuddled brain cursed me at the time but it was a wise choice; virtually empty roads meant we made very good time. So good that we were worried there may be nowhere open to grab a pre walk brekkie in Thames. Thankfully there was; and a farmers market too. And fed and caffeinated we picked up supplies before heading to the trail start.

We had been warned the that trail was very difficult, with lot's of steps and the trail spent almost entirely in ascent. While not as bad we had been led to believe it was still no walk in the park. ;0)

Steep in places the trail passes through a mixture of dense rainforest and open bush with three river crossings; two of which were made by suspension bridges. The views from the top across the Coromandel Peninsula and beyond were spectacular.

We had booked into the DOC hut for the night to make a weekend of it and avoid the need to do the track down again the same day. The DOC reckons 3 hours to reach the hut and we did it 2 hours 30 so not bad going. Great timing too as it started raining just after we arrived.

We stripped of layer after layer during the ascent but piled them back on, while resting at the hut. The elevation and the strong winds making us rather chilly. Worst of all we realised we only packed enough coffee for the morning - disaster! Thankfully the on site warden found us a tea bag to share. Never has a cup of tea been so welcome :0)

The rain abated and a quick bite and a warming cup of tea later we left the hut (and our packs) to scale the summit. A short but steep climb including ladders and footholds bolted to the rockface.

Lovely and sunny up here and just as well as the wind was very strong. At the very top we engaged in a spot of rock climbing to perch upon the rocks from which the trail takes it's name and thus sit an elevation of 759m; Matylda almost getting stuck as it was a lot harder getting down than up.

The sun was setting now and the changing light transformed the views once more as headed back to the hut for dinner - barbecued steak, broccoli and beetroot with a sole glass of vino; turns out we did not bring enough wine either!

The clouds cleared and we were afforded great views of the night sky, even the Milky Way was itself was visible - a band of stars and galaxies traversing the sky.

The hut itself slept 80 on bunks and while chilly had cooking facilities and was a great place to sit and eat. Breakfast with a view!

Our descent the next day took a little longer as we took the more difficult and more rugged "Billy Goat" track. Three and half hours were required to knock this one off and we all had aching feet and knees by the end. This track was more interesting however, some great valley views, disused Kauri hauling tracks and lots of large Ponga.

We got lucky with the weather again - warm enough to wear shorts and not a drop of rain. A real bonus since the same walk in the rain would have been a lot harder and not as enjoyable.

Not having eaten much since we breakfast we stopped off at Kaiaua for fish and chips with fine views of the Coromandel Peninsula mountains; the Pinnacles themselves somewhere amongst them.

And of course, since Amanda was not able to join us, I'll have to go back - what a shame!

South Island: Day Two

OK, let's see if we can get some momentum going with these posts; after all I've got 21 days to get through!

Thursday 14th February

Geraldine - Moeraki - Dunedin

Up a little late (damn that noisy fan). But, fueled on some gorgeous free range eggs, pork schnitzel and United 1 -0 up against Real Madrid in the Champions League, we set off. Our immediate destination is Moreaki and it's famous boulders. We first make a quick stop at Oamaru however, to grab a coffee. There is a Steampunk museum here and while we don't have time to stop, we grab some photos of some works outside.

Arrive at the the boulders just after low tide. Sweet, anyone would think we planned this ;0)

The boulders are cool, stone balls, most half buried in the sand. Many, many photos were taken and some tomfoolery was had. Unfortunately it turns out we did not take any exceptional shots; a nice sunset would have helped. However, here are few of the best for your delectation. [Must work on my handstands!]

Head a little further south to Shag Point (insert your favourite carry on witticism here) and follow a steep path behind some houses down to a tidal shelf. There are more boulders here, which owing to their larger size and variety are probably more impressive than their more well known cousins.

Some look like fossilized dinosaur eggs; some are intact, others split in half; some have water in them; some are literally covered in guano; some are half embedded in the cliff side; all are interesting. We heard that this places was popular with seals, but see none.

Spend a good hour here wandering and snapping away. There are plenty of rock pools filled with crystal clear water, left by the high tide. Some wildlife in them, but not loads. Far more lively is the kelp that lines the shore. It's in constant motion as the tide sucks in and out through it. Amanda is transfixed - "it looks like taglliatelle!"

Speaking of the tide; it decided, rather inconsiderately we felt, to start coming back in more aggressively. Time to start heading back. Take a route nearer to the sea to watch the kelp; and almost walk straight into a fur seal, literally!

Very well camouflaged, it's not bothered by us and we calmly walk on. Only to spot another one. Larger, more active and blocking our path back to the cliff. Not only that it starts heading towards us.

Retreat is blocked by the incoming tide. What was once tidal shelf is quickly becoming simply tide, thick with kelp and in most places waist deep or higher. Queue some mild panic.

Mr Seal keeps moving forward towards us; stopping and eye-balling us every few meters. We are slowly flanking it all the time getting ready to wade; thankfully we manage to get to a higher part of the shelf which only requires some scrambling and rock hopping as supposed to wading. We've managed to flank him and he saunters past and plops into the sea.

After that little bit of drama a cup of tea was in order. So we drive on a little further to Shag point itself, park up and get the kettle on. Brew with a view. The sun then comes out and take a short walk along the headland. Spy a seal colony below us, lazing on the rocks. Amanda is disappointed not to spy any penguins - even taking some convincing that the birds she can see are gannets and not penguins.

Amazing views and some great surf - would make a lovely spot if not for the rocks, seals and kelp. Back to our room with a view for some leftover "Brocolli Bolognese". A lovely spot we wanted to spend the night - our first bit of "freedom camping" - but it is forbidden here.

So, push on south to Dunedin. Lot's of steep hills and the camper struggles a little. Worth the climb however as you descent into Dunedin from atop one of the steepest. Fabulous views.

Campsite is on the outskirts of town. Grab a drink in a nearby "locals" bar. Miranda is playing; Amanda is happy, as are half the bar - unexpected!

Roads so far have been easy, but the steep descent into Dunedin aside, boring to drive. That said, flat straight roads mean we are still on our first tank of gas. :0)

Odometer: 384km