Sunday, 29 July 2012

Down Under (& NOT right a bit)

That's right folks, this post is not about NZ but rather Australia, well, Sydney.

With the winter temperature only hovering around 16C we decided we needed to be somewhere a little warmer! ;0)

Not really, of course, although it was a few degrees warmer and once again we got lucky with the weather; it only rained once during the week - but that did happen to be the day we went to the beach!

While I've been to Sydney before Amanda had not so we thought we take the opportunity to pop over since it was a relatively short 3 hours flight away. We also both have friends who have emigrated to Oz and live in Sydney and took the opportunity to catch up.

BTW, Did you know?

If you click on the photos on our blog you can view a larger version. :0)

And, if you press and hold Ctrl on the keyboard when you click it, it will open in a new window.

Arrival

In fact our very first night we met up with an old Uni friend of mine, Russell, who has since become a bona-fide Australian Citizen, but still lacks an Aussie accent even after 8 years - so maybe there is hope for us too :0)

Monday - Tourists for the Day

Sydney Tower

1500 steps to the top but you are not allowed to take them, much to Rich's frustration...

Started the trip proper with some touristy stuff, starting with the Sydney Tower. There is something like 1500 steps to the top, but I was a little disappointed to learn that they were not an option. The guides were adamant that we had to take the lift and refused to believe that I actually wanted to take the stairs. Looking back, perhaps they were doing me a favour though!

After taking in the views, (including our residence for the week - circled) back at ground level, we strolled through the historic QVB shopping mall and then met a friend of Amanda's for lunch at Circular Quay with a view of the Opera House. Very hot and sunny we even had to shelter from the sun! After that we strolled back to the BnB via the botanical gardens, taking plenty of photographs of of the Opera House.


Factoid: The coldest ever temperature recorded in Sydney is 2.1C!!!?

I can see the pub from here!

(can't see any ale though!)

View of Potts Point & Woolloomooloo

The red dot is where we stayed. The wharf to the left contains, amongst other things, Russell Crowes house and Thales Sydney.

Opera House

The orange things are temporary poles as this area is under refurbishment.

Girls

Amanda and Amie in front of the SOH.

Amanda @ SOH

Flags on Sydney Harbour Bridge

View of SOH & SHB

Taken from near Mrs Macquarie's chair - popular place for photos of the above.

Tuesday - Blue Mountains

Thought we would make the most of the existing hot spell to visit the Blue Mountains a 2 hour train ride away. Good job we did as it was markedly colder up there, especially with the wind.

Named after the blue haze that hangs in the air we got some wonderful views of them from the train, a dense fog hanging in the valley, so thick it looked like a river. Sadly we got no photos of this, but plenty later in the day.

Started with a quick walk to the viewing platform over the valley and then a quick descent down some steep steps to the famous Three Sisters pinnacles. You could really feel the wind here as it whistled though a narrow gap between the cliff and the pinnacles. The bridge across to the Three Sisters was rather exposed and I can easily believe that people have been blown away. I wasn't, obviously, and Amanda did not risk it!

From this point a further track called the "The Giant Stairway" led down to the valley floor. The pathway is over 100 years old and built by convicts (hey this is Australia!). A lot of the steps are very worn and in many places replaced with steel. Very steep and in some places very exposed. Amanda gave it a go but had to turn back at one point as her legs were getting a bit wobbly. Good job she did as the very next stretch of steps, were the new steel ones, basically grates which you can see through - and there was nothing underneath - check out the video below!

While Amanda stopped to gather herself before heading back to the top I continued down; 20 minutes later I was still only about 2/3 of the way down and so headed back myself to check on Amanda.

Completed our day by walking several kilometres along the cliff edge to one of the waterfalls. I even took the chance to try a bit of proper barefoot walking and found it actually quite comfortable - if a little cold, especially on the rocks. It also made puddles and muddle a lot easier to navigate - just stride on through. Amanda even gave it a go and I think quite enjoyed it; but after a a few minutes the cold got the better of her and her feet were soon wrapped up again.

Blue Mountains

Taking in the view during my barefoot walk. Soon got tired of holding the Vibrams and stuffed them in the rucksack.

The Great Stairway

Blue Mountains

The steps down to the Pinnacles.

Here's a video of the point just after Amanda turned back..

MOV03011 from Rich & Amanda on Vimeo.

Wednesday - Manly

You have to spend some time on the water in Sydney harbour and so we took the 30 minute ferry to Manly. Another gorgeous day and barely a ripple on the water so Amanda was not struck down with sea-sickness. Spent the afternoon chilling on the beach.

Manly beach

Manly beach

Caught the ferry back to the city just before sunset and saw was able to get some cool photos of the opera house (what else) as the light changed.

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Opera House

Taken from the Manly to Circular Quay Ferry

In the evening we had dinner (or more precisely we were kindly taken to dinner by Malcom, Amanda's second cousin). Had a great evening enjoying Malcom's stories and the food and ale of the famous old Lord Nelson Hotel. I finally found some Ale, called Annihilation no less :0). Then after dinner, Malcom took us for a quick spin across the bridge and back to see Sydney at night and point our various landmarks. The perfect host and very proud of his adopted homeland.

Thursday - Bondi & Opera

Headed to Bondi beach, just 15 minutes by train and bus. The rain started literally as soon as we got off the bus which made our walk along the beach a little less pleasant. Our only day of poor weather and it cleared up within less than an hour anyway! I was hoping to get in some surfing at Bondi, but, deja vu, my back was playing up and decided it was best not to risk it. :0(

We did however check out some local surfers who were ripping it up; so maybe it was a good thing as I would probably have embarrassed myself! After being humbled by said locals we followed the coastal walk from Bondi to Bronte. Great views, fresh sea air and an impressive(?) cliffside cemetery at the end of the walk.

Get the impression the Aussies don't know what a cold spell is. As we took a coffee in Bronte, a (senior) local informed us that this was the coldest day he had seen in over 45 years. Think it was about 15C! I think his memory might be a little rusty, but still, you get the point.

Bondi Beach

Miserable weather but pretty good waves, sadly I had to pass though. :0(

Bondi to Bronte Coastal Path

View across Bronte Bay

Waverley Cemetery

Cemetery near Bronte opened in 1877.

Waverley Cemetery

Noted for its largely intact Victorian and Edwardian monuments.

Quick bite to eat then home to get ready for a spot of culture - we were attending an Opera at the Sydney Opera House (err, well, yeah). A first for both of us. We had a choice of two or three to see but plumped for the shortest! So Bizet's The Pearlfishers was our entertainment for the evening.

Had relatively cheap seats so we were up in the gods; as luck would have it there were several empty seats in front of us and so at the first interval we moved several rows and around a $100 closer. :0)

Impression? Well personally, I found the stagecraft pretty impressive - lots of complementary blue and orange lighting with depth added by layers of translucent curtains. Very clever and at times it was hard to tell if you were looking at performers or a projection.

Being inside the opera house we could appreciate another view of the architecture and were also rewarded with some excellent views of the harbour and the bridge. As for the Opera itself, meh, I can take it or leave it. Could not help but find two people conversing through song quite amusing. Must be a philistine!

As for Amanda - she enjoyed it, but would not rush to see another one - particularly if there are any women singing - she can't stand the warbling!

Inside the Opera House

Our reflections in the glass, with the bridge out the window.

Interval @ Opera House

Dark when we got out so took some Opera House by Night photos (bored of them yet!?)

Opera House

After the Opera...

Thinking of England

Friday - He rises!

Today was pretty much just about the pointy eared one. No not Legolas, The Dark Knight (aka Batman for the older amongst you). Another first for us as we saw it at an IMAX, and not just any IMAX as we found out when we arrived - the world's largest no less.

And boy was it large. Was a little worried that it might actually be too big- I mean it is 30m high and 36m wide! With seats near the back it turned out not to be a problem and the time whizzed by, all 166 minutes of it. Won't say another word good or bad in case you are off to see it yourselves!

Not much else to report Friday so here are some phots of Sydney...

View of the CBD

Taken from the Botanical Gardens.

Darling Harbour by Night

What is it about reflected lights and city lights that is so appealing?

Saturday - Food, Drum and Bass

Took the (soon to be shut down) Monorail to one of Sydney's oldest and largest markets, around 1800 stalls apparently (think some were hiding). Spent an hour so strolling around, but not much to see really. Headed to Chinatown afterwards for some yummy Yum Cha and came across this dude called Catfish The Bottleman. A Sydney busker who was not only very good but had a permanent smile on his face as he drummer away - reminded us of a friend back home. :0)

He even had some impromptu company as a lady from the audience, started break dancing in front of him, not much style but full of nonchalance; yeah what, what!?

Also saw this sign in Chinatown and just had to snappety-snap...

Catfish The Bottleman

A regular busker outside Paddy's market adjacent to Chinatown. Super happy chappy who has his own Facebook page.

Next up was ice cream at the wonderful Messina. A huge range of flavours - including some salted(!?) - but probably most famous for the gelato creations such as the gelato burger!

The main event today however was Russell, Pete and Stretch's liquid funk, d n b and house night.

Russell was coming out of "retirement" after 8 years away from the decks; DJ Switchback was to be reborn at this event and supported by Pete and Stretch, the latter of whom was an old colleague of mine and so another chance to catch up.

Amanda was less than impressed by the music being played but spent the entire night chatting away with Amie so don't think it was too much of a chore. Meanwhile a foot injury sustained earlier in the week meant there was no rug cutting by Rich, perhaps it was for the best...

Sunday - Homeward bound

Just had time to check out the historic Sydney barracks on the way to the airport. Oh and marvel at how busy and crowded Sydney feels after spending 6 months in Auckland!

Saturday, 14 July 2012

Into The North

The start of winter and while northern hemisphere logic says heading North is the worst thing to do, that's what we did as June started.

Our destination was Pahia in the Bay Of Islands; a small resort town adjacent to Waitangi, which was where the Waitangi treaty was signed way back in 1840.

Quite a long drive, around 3 hours so we broke it up with a few stops along the way. First stop was Matakana for a spot of brekky. A small town set near to some outstanding coastline, it is swamped every Saturday morning as the Matakana Farmers Market takes place. One of the largest and most celebrated on the North Island. It was a perfect sunny day and after perusing the wares and deciding on a couple of interesting beers called 'The Doctor' I had an amazing 'all day breakfast' complete with wild boar sausages and black pudding.

After a quick coffee and walk stop in Whangarei (plus a wee lie down) we arrived at Pahia with just enough time to check in before heading straight out for a quick stroll along the seafront and then dinner.

Taking a load off

It's tiring business all this driving...

There is not really much in Pahia itself, but it makes a good base to explore the Bay Of Islands or Waitangi. We did find a cool bar/resutaurant, literally over the water - it was on stilts - hexagonal in shape and at it's center a huge fish tank complete with coral, lobsters and shoals of fish-note the plural! Despite only being here for two nights we became known as regulars. In part due to the great food, good beer and great views - particuarly over breakfast.

But also because of the open fires! Our hotel room was rather chilly with just a single electric fan heater to warm it and so we hung out here for as long as possible.

Up early next day to make the short drive to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds- probably should have walked in fact it was that short. The Treaty of Waitangi is New Zealand’s founding document. And was signed at Waitangi, hence it's name! It was signed by representatives of the crown (The British Empire) and the Maori tribes. It was a broad statement of principles upon which the British officials and Māori chiefs made a political compact or covenant to found a nation state and build a government in New Zealand. It would appear that ever since first signed it has been controversial with some Maori seeking settlements due to successive governments since then taking actions that have resulted in the alienation of Māori land, waters and other resources from their owners, generally without proper consent or compensation. That's probably a gross simplification but you can find out more here.

As a tourist attraction it made for a pleasant way to spend the day. Dosed up on the history via a quick doco and then headed to the Treaty House; built for the British Resident it is one of New Zealand's first and oldest homes - and does not look much different from many of the houses in Auckland's suburbs...

A beautiful place to have a house with amazing views and surrounded by great coastal walks. Spent a couple of hours doing just that and was even able to strip down to a t-shirt such was the gorgeousness of the day! :0)

After the walk we checked out the exquisitely carved Te Whare Runanga - a Maori Meeting House, which is representative of all Iwi (regional tribes) in New Zealand. Some amazing carvings in here, and yes that guy is holding what it looks like (and doesn't he look pleased with himself). The walls are covered in weaving made from various grasses. An impressive place and of great significance to the Maori. Even I felt something come over me as we left....

Also took a gander at the Ngatokimatawhaorua a huge ceremonial Maori war canoe famed as one of the world's largest - so I guess one of New Zealand's largest! ;0)

Had a gorgeous late lunch at the café on the treaty grounds, which surprised us both - can you imagine a café at a British tourist attraction being any good and reasonable to boot?!

A bit (more) exercise next as we walked to a viewpoint with views over Pahia and across the bay.

Homeward bound the next day, but had a few stops planned along the way. The previous day's walks had whetted our appetite for more and we headed to Whangarei Heads to climb Mount Manaia. Wow! One of the best walks we have done to date. Amazing bush, with some huge and varied trees and much to Amanda's displeasure, a LOT of steps, around 700 I think. Well worth it though as the summit is 400m above sea level and the views from the top were outstanding.

Perhaps even better though were the views from a ledge we discovered after a tip from some other walkers we met at the base. About 2/3 up the mountain and down a little track was an exposed ledge of granite. Spectacular I think you will agree.

We timed it just right with the weather too - started off threatening rain, but the clouds dispersed a bit for our climb, before clouding over and raining just after we had finished.

Headed home after this, but had enough time to stop off at Kawakawa and use the factilies at the famous Hundertwasser Toilets. Designed by internationally renowned artist, ecologist and architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, the toilets are made from the community's recycled old glass bottles and reclaimed bricks.

A few k's further along the road we noticed a sign "Welcome to Auckland"; thing Auckland was still approx 80km away - big place!