Into The North

The start of winter and while northern hemisphere logic says heading North is the worst thing to do, that's what we did as June started.

Our destination was Pahia in the Bay Of Islands; a small resort town adjacent to Waitangi, which was where the Waitangi treaty was signed way back in 1840. Quite a long drive, around 3 hours so we broke it up with a few stops along the way. First stop was Matakana for a spot of brekky. A small town set near to some outstanding coastline, it is swamped every Saturday morning as the Matakana Farmers Market takes place. One of the largest and most celebrated on the North Island. It was a perfect sunny day and after perusing the wares and deciding on a couple of interesting beers called 'The Doctor' I had an amazing 'all day breakfast' complete with wild boar sausages and black pudding.

After a quick coffee and walk stop in Whangarei (plus a wee lie down) we arrived at Pahia with just enough time to check in before heading straight out for a quick stroll along the seafront and then dinner.

Taking a load off It's tiring business all this driving...

There is not really much in Pahia itself, but it makes a good base to explore the Bay Of Islands or Waitangi. We did find a cool bar/resutaurant, literally over the water - it was on stilts - hexagonal in shape and at it's center a huge fish tank complete with coral, lobsters and shoals of fish-note the plural! Despite only being here for two nights we became known as regulars. In part due to the great food, good beer and great views - particuarly over breakfast.

But also because of the open fires! Our hotel room was rather chilly with just a single electric fan heater to warm it and so we hung out here for as long as possible.

Up early next day to make the short drive to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds- probably should have walked in fact it was that short. The Treaty of Waitangi is New Zealand’s founding document. And was signed at Waitangi, hence it's name! It was signed by representatives of the crown (The British Empire) and the Maori tribes. It was a broad statement of principles upon which the British officials and Māori chiefs made a political compact or covenant to found a nation state and build a government in New Zealand. It would appear that ever since first signed it has been controversial with some Maori seeking settlements due to successive governments since then taking actions that have resulted in the alienation of Māori land, waters and other resources from their owners, generally without proper consent or compensation. That's probably a gross simplification but you can find out more here.

As a tourist attraction it made for a pleasant way to spend the day. Dosed up on the history via a quick doco and then headed to the Treaty House; built for the British Resident it is one of New Zealand's first and oldest homes - and does not look much different from many of the houses in Auckland's suburbs...

A beautiful place to have a house with amazing views and surrounded by great coastal walks. Spent a couple of hours doing just that and was even able to strip down to a t-shirt such was the gorgeousness of the day! :0)

After the walk we checked out the exquisitely carved Te Whare Runanga - a Maori Meeting House, which is representative of all Iwi (regional tribes) in New Zealand. Some amazing carvings in here, and yes that guy is holding what it looks like (and doesn't he look pleased with himself). The walls are covered in weaving made from various grasses. An impressive place and of great significance to the Maori. Even I felt something come over me as we left....

Also took a gander at the Ngatokimatawhaorua a huge ceremonial Maori war canoe famed as one of the world's largest - so I guess one of New Zealand's largest! ;0)

Had a gorgeous late lunch at the café on the treaty grounds, which surprised us both - can you imagine a café at a British tourist attraction being any good and reasonable to boot?!

A bit (more) exercise next as we walked to a viewpoint with views over Pahia and across the bay.

Homeward bound the next day, but had a few stops planned along the way. The previous day's walks had whetted our appetite for more and we headed to Whangarei Heads to climb Mount Manaia. Wow! One of the best walks we have done to date. Amazing bush, with some huge and varied trees and much to Amanda's displeasure, a LOT of steps, around 700 I think. Well worth it though as the summit is 400m above sea level and the views from the top were outstanding.

Perhaps even better though were the views from a ledge we discovered after a tip from some other walkers we met at the base. About 2/3 up the mountain and down a little track was an exposed ledge of granite. Spectacular I think you will agree.

We timed it just right with the weather too - started off threatening rain, but the clouds dispersed a bit for our climb, before clouding over and raining just after we had finished.

Headed home after this, but had enough time to stop off at Kawakawa and use the factilies at the famous Hundertwasser Toilets. Designed by internationally renowned artist, ecologist and architect, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, the toilets are made from the community's recycled old glass bottles and reclaimed bricks.

A few k's further along the road we noticed a sign "Welcome to Auckland"; thing Auckland was still approx 80km away - big place!